Harry's Ridge Hike: A Scenic Odyssey in the Shadow of Mount St. Helens

Harry’s Ridge Hike: A Scenic Odyssey in the Shadow of Mount St. Helens

Radd Icenoggle

December 26, 2023

Hiking 2021,Washington 2021

May 18, 1980, unleashed the long-dormant wrath of Mount St. Helens in a cataclysmic eruption that reverberated through the annals of geological history. This stratovolcano, nestled in the Cascade Range of Washington state, had been dormant for over a century, but on that fateful morning, the mountain shattered the tranquility of its surroundings. And I was about to celebrate my 8th birthday…needless to say, the party was called off due to inches of gray volcanic ash that fell like snow across western Montana.

But on this glorious June morning in 2021, Vida and I were off to Mount Saint Helens, and man, I fell in love with this dynamic landscape.

The ominous rumblings had begun in March of that year when a series of earthquakes and steam venting heralded the awakening of the sleeping giant. United States Geological Survey (USGS) diligently monitored the escalating activity, providing invaluable insights into the impending catastrophe. As tension mounted, residents and experts alike braced for the unknown.

Then, with a force that defied imagination, Mount St. Helens erupted. The trigger was the collapse of its north flank, unleashing a monstrous landslide of debris and rock. The ensuing lateral blast tore through the landscape at astonishing speeds, leaving devastation in its wake. Clocking in at over 670 miles per hour (1,080 kilometers per hour), the blast obliterated everything in its path, leveling an area of approximately 230 square miles (600 square kilometers).

A colossal column of ash and volcanic debris shot into the sky, soaring to altitudes exceeding 15 miles (24 kilometers). Winds carried the ominous ash cloud eastward, casting a dark shadow over vast regions of the United States and even reaching Europe. The ashfall disrupted air travel, wreaked havoc on agriculture, and painted landscapes with an otherworldly, gray hue.

The human toll was heart-wrenching, with 57 lives lost, including that of geologist David A. Johnston, stationed at an observation post on the ridge northwest of the volcano. Beyond the human tragedy, the natural world suffered profound scars. Forests lay flattened, rivers choked with debris, and the once-thriving landscape transformed into a desolate, ashen wasteland.

The aftermath unfolded as a grim tableau of destruction, but it also became a unique laboratory for the study of ecological recovery. Despite the desolation, life gradually returned to the scorched earth, showcasing the remarkable resilience of nature. The landscape around Mount St. Helens, once a symbol of devastation, emerged as a testament to the indomitable spirit of renewal inherent in the natural world.

This eruption, etched into history, served as a pivotal moment in our understanding of volcanic hazards. The lessons learned from Mount St. Helens prompted advancements in volcano monitoring and research, shaping the foundation of improved preparedness for future volcanic events. Today, the scarred slopes of Mount St. Helens stand as a stark reminder of the dynamic forces that shape our planet and the imperative of scientific vigilance in the face of nature’s fury.

If you’re itching for a breathtaking hike that’s packed with history and stunning vistas, look no further than the trek to Harrys Ridge at Mount Saint Helens. Trust me, this one is a gem, especially if you’re keen on getting up close and personal with the aftermath of the 1980 eruption.

Start your journey at the Johnston Ridge Observatory, where you’ll need to snag a wristband. (Pro tip: Don’t forget to check in and pay the fee or flash that Northwest Forest Pass.) Take a moment to explore the exhibits, then step outside to marvel at the jaw-dropping breach on the north side of Mount Saint Helens. That debris plain between you and the mountain? It’s a 150-foot thick layer of pyroclastic material from the largest recorded landslide in human history. Take a moment at the memorial wall, honoring the 57 souls lost in the blast.

Now, let’s hit the Eruption Trail! This paved pathway weaves its way through the landscape, complete with interpretive signs detailing the cataclysm and its aftermath. Enjoy the switchbacks and wind your way past signs explaining the revegetation process nearly 40 years later. Wildflowers galore, including paintbrush, lupine, penstemon, fireweed, and pearly everlasting, will greet you at the top.

As you officially enter the Mt. Margaret Backcountry, make sure you’ve got that permit if you’re planning to camp. The views from here are top-notch, offering glimpses of the Sasquatch Steps and Coldwater Peak. Keep an eye out for the Saint Helens Lake Arch and the resilient dwarf lupine making a comeback.

Don’t miss the detour to Devils Elbow Viewpoint for a full-on view of the breach, Spirit Lake, Mount Adams, and more. After taking it all in, head back to the main trail and make your way to the Boundary-Truman Trail Junction. Hike up through the Spillover area, where the landslide cascaded over Johnston Ridge, providing incredible views of Coldwater Peak.

Crossing a footbridge at Harrys Saddle, you’ll reach the Boundary-Harrys Ridge Trail Junction. Head right, switchback, and soak in the breathtaking views of The Dome, Spirit Lake, Bear Cove, and Mount Adams. The trail winds through huckleberries and leads you to the volcano monitoring equipment at the ridge’s top, offering a panoramic view of Mount Saint Helens and Spirit Lake.

Feel free to continue for another 0.2 miles along the north crest of the ridge, but honestly, the summit is an unbeatable turnaround point with views that’ll leave you in awe. Lace-up those hiking boots, grab your camera, and get ready for a hike that’s as rich in history as it is in natural beauty.